Screen Door – NE Portland

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What I Ordered
  • Buttermilk biscuit sandwich 
  • Screen Door fried chicken and waffles 
  • Screen Door praline bacon 

In Short: Screen Door provided a fantastic sampling of Southern comfort foods starring Northwest ingredients and exemplary service.

 

Screen Door is undoubtedly one of the hottest brunch spots in Portland. They serve a classic Southern menu with a local Northwest twist and are famous for their sweet and savory brunch items. They work hard to explore cuisines from all over the South and make sure to use local ingredients. I was happy to see the restaurant bustling early on a Monday morning!

I ordered a buttermilk biscuit sandwich with pimiento cheese, pork sausage, a fried egg, and a side of cheesy grits for $10.75. This sandwich was huge! Before biting into it, I had to take a fork and knife to whittle away at the sausage and egg pouring over the sides. Once the sandwich was a manageable size, I was finally able to experience all of the flavors together in one bite, and it was awesome. It was super cheesy with a bit of a kick, and everything was perfectly seasoned. The buttermilk biscuits were my favorite and the whole thing felt very authentically Southern.

My boyfriend ordered the house specialty, the fried chicken and waffles. This dish comes with the option of one, two, or three pieces of the fried chicken for $10.75, $12.75, or $14.75. This is obviously the dish to come here for and was honestly a bit of a religious experience. The buttermilk fried chicken is so perfectly crispy and zesty, and the sweet potato waffle is the ideal sweet accompaniment. Fried chicken and waffles first appeared as a combination in Dutch Pennsylvania during the 1600’s, but truly gained popularity with the opening of the famous Wells Supper Club in Harlem in 1938. Because the dish was a perfect mix of breakfast and dinner, it was ideal for the club’s late-night musicians. The trend really took off in 1976 with the opening of Roscoe’s Chicken and Waffles in Los Angeles, the first restaurant to put fried chicken and waffles front a center. I think Screen Door did these historic establishments proud!

Now the most important part of breakfast of Screen Door has to be their praline bacon. A side order of 3 strips is $6.50, and let me tell you why: this bacon is dripping with brown sugar, cayenne, and pecans, and is more of a dessert than anything. The taste is shocking at first if you’ve never had anything like it, but it is a must-have.

I want to give a shoutout to our fantastic server, Sam. He was so funny, enthusiastic, and prompt, and those traits are difficult to find all in one person these days! If not for the bacon or fried chicken, I’ll definitely be back to be served again by Sam. The restaurant was really cute, but a bit cramped with kids running around. They have a great outdoor seating area that I’m looking forward to visiting in the summer. Screen Door serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week and is a Portland must-see.