Review By: Maya Silver -
Snooze A.M. Eatery is the perfect antidote to a a bleak, overcast Monday morning preceded by a night of whiskey. Even relatively early on the first day of the work week, a line quickly accumulated at this popular and acclaimed breakfast/brunch spot in downtown Denver. Luckily, Snooze has probably dealt with enough grumpy, hungry prospective diners to know that a full pot of complementary coffee and creamer beside the door is a win for everyone.
A few sips into our pre-meal coffee, a young waiter with skinny jeans and tattoos seated us on the heated, tented patio. The basic premise of Snooze is a diner but the decor is also reminiscent of a cross between artsy hipster and The Jetsons. Snooze elevates traditional breakfast food with unconventional ingredients and a commitment to sustainability that translates to local, organic ingredients, too.
Usually, I waffle between a simple breakfast of two eggs over medium with bacon, hash browns and whole wheat toast and the occasional Benedict. But, I’d heard wind of the magic Snooze made of breakfast and felt obligated to seek a more adventurous choice.
Spontaneously, having scanned the large menu aimlessly for about 10 minutes, I selected the breakfast tacos. My boyfriend buckled to his Scottish roots and opted for the Corned Beef Hash. Our friend ordered a non-traditional Eggs Benedict (proscuitto, arugala, balsamic, etc.).
We also decided we were curious and hungry enough to order a “Coffee and Donuts” pancake and one of the many varieties of Bloody Marys. It’s always nice to have a Bloody Mary option on the menu — let alone 4+ takes on this hangover-curing, spicy AM cocktail.
The food arrived promptly considering the wait and the crowd. The Tacos were beautiful – not the indistinguishable pile of slop that often characterizes Mexican breakfast dishes.
The scrambled eggs were perfectly cooked — moist and light. The hash browns were uncomplicated and purely delicious. I forgot to request flour tortillas since corn tortillas sometimes strike me as gummy and cardboard-esque, but these corn tortillas were a soft texture with a slight bite and actually tasted like freshly ground cornmeal. Best of all was the fresh salsa strewn across the top — clearly REAL and ripe tomatoes, red onions and jalapenos in a perfect balance of sweetness and heat.
The Coffee and Donut pancake was actually shaped like a donut, with the center cut out and tossed to the side of the plate. It was vaguely suggestive of a donut — perhaps a touch of mace or nutmeg. The coffee espresso cream sidekick tasted more of a butter with a slight hint of bitterness. Overall, however, I’m not complaining — it was delicious and we devoured the entire thing along with finishing our own breakfast entrees.
Snooze is a little pricey and a wait (especially on weekends) should be expected. But it’s worth it for the funky ambiance, friendly service and a menu that truly takes breakfast to the next level.